Delectable kebabs, fragrant biryani, and airy, ethereal desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has forever been a haven for gastronomes, with residents and visitors alike praising its exquisite cuisine.
An International Accolade
Recently, The United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization recognised it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – placing it on a prestigious group of global cities and sparking hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's sublime food. With this title, it becomes part of a worldwide network of over 400 metropolises across more than 100 countries focused on promoting "artistic expression as a key factor of development that sustains urban life".
The accolade "stands as proof of its deep-rooted gastronomic legacy and lively gastronomic culture," as noted by a representative from Unesco's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to find a place in this prestigious list of 70 cities internationally.
A City Defined by Food
The honor for this historic city is little surprise to its inhabitants or dedicated food lovers. Many echo the opinion that it is "an honor long overdue".
With the UNESCO recognition, this adored, lively, and eclectic city – the administrative center of India's largest state – is finally in the global gaze for what has always characterized its essence: an immense love for food.
"'What's for dinner, how should it be prepared' is a ongoing conversation from waking up until night in most homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are actually judged by the excellence of food that is produced in your kitchen."
A Royal Culinary Legacy
The City of Nawabs – as it's often referred to after its 18th and 19th-century wealthy Muslim rulers – is noted for its succulent kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were invented, refined, and elevated to extraordinary levels in their royal kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were hubs of culinary innovations, fusing Iranian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was in this era that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were developed. As the tale is told that the galouti kebab was devised to cater to an elderly nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His chefs ground the meat with raw papaya, kesar, and spices and made it so fine that it required no chewing.
But arguably the most significant contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a low, leisurely heat, with the container's cover securely sealed with a flour paste.
More Than Just Famous Dishes
Apart from the famous kebabs and biryani, the cooks also built up a collection of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a haven for vegetarians.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine not only highlights seasonal produce but also gives the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Virtually on many street corners, there are small establishments and kiosks – little-known treasures that are extremely popular with the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, large gatherings start milling around from the crack of dawn at a renowned tea stall to get a piping hot cup of spiced tea with milk, offered in clay glasses, along with fluffy buns covered in freshly churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can visit a simple joint situated in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was set up, the place is still in great demand for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also presents remarkable treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert available in the winter. The technique of making it is scientific and involved. The vendor whisks the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its amazing frothy texture.
On chilly mornings, street vendors can be seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Many however note that their children are reluctant to master the craft.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has noted that the city's profound food legacy positions it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, however, will be realized only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – influenced by family-run food businesses, from humble street carts to bustling restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The worldwide honor, it is believed, will inspire more people globally to learn these narratives and travel to the city to savour the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.
